Taormina: Visiting The White Lotus Location and Surviving the Crowds

We said goodbye to Ortigia this morning and caught the local bus to the station for the 10:35 AM direct train to Taormina. Unfortunately, they were having some "train trouble," so we didn’t end up pulling away until around 10:50.

We had booked First Class again; the wider seats and extra legroom make a world of difference, especially with the increased overhead luggage space. Since it was a two-hour trip, we figured we might as well be comfortable!

Arriving at Taormina-Giardini station, we just needed to catch a bus up the mountain. I wasn’t sure of the timetables, and my research before leaving hadn't told me much either. However, as you walk out of the terminal, there are buses departing every five minutes and the travel time is only about ten. As we wound our way up the hill, the views were quite spectacular, and a few minutes later we arrived at the bus drop-off. With our hotel entrance right opposite, it was easy going from there.

Tribute to Oscar Wilde who fell in love with Taormina

A Hotel Perched on a Hill Great for Views

On arrival, it was hot and humid; it felt exactly like a North Queensland summer. It may only have been thirty degrees, but with the high humidity, the moment you stepped into the sun, the sweat just poured off you.

We are staying at the Hotel Ariston and Palazzo. We made our way to reception, which was like a rabbit warren: up about 80 steps with a few ramps thrown in, past the pool, into a small lift, then more steps, winding our way through the bistro, and up yet another flight of stairs. We had finally arrived! Was there an easier way? Yes, but we only found that out the following day when I spotted a porter and a minibus.

Overlooking the Hotel’s outside Bistro and Dining area

Leanne suggested we ask for a room upgrade, so we did. They gave us two options to look at: one with a direct ocean view through a closed window, and another with a much larger room and bed, featuring an alfresco-style courtyard with a garden view and glimpses of the sea. We took the second one, and at an extra 60 Euro, it was well worth it.

Of course, it was another short downhill trek to actually get there, but I guess that’s just the price you pay for a hotel built into the side of a mountain!

Sun setting through the garden from our balcony

After we unpacked and caught our breath, we decided to head into Taormina. It was the reverse of the trek we had just finished, Once we got to the bus station, we just turned left, walked uphill for about fifteen minutes and we were in the heart of town.

As soon as we arrived, we found a little cafe and grabbed some lunch. I was busting for another arancini al ragù like the one in Ortigia, but we were both disappointed—it was crap! We’ve decided we won’t be having any more in Sicily, as the freshly homemade arancini al ragù ones cannot be beaten. Most other places seem to sell mass-produced versions and are heated up in a microwave. To make matters worse, the "waiter"—who was likely a part-owner—was just a grumpy, angry man. I've already left a 1 star rating for this tourist trap of a restaurant. The name is "Produzione gelati, granite" steer clear!

Taormina is virtually one main street lined with shops, where balcony baskets overflow with flowers in full bloom and narrow side alleys are packed with restaurants and people. I couldn’t believe the crowds; a cruise ship must have come in, with everyone shuffled into town on buses. I noticed most were French, English with a few Americans thrown into the mix.

On top of that, there were tour groups everywhere. People were wandering from one side of the street to the other like targets in a duck-shooting gallery—their faces either pressed against shop windows or buried in their phones. I couldn’t hold a straight line down the street. Eventually, I just put my phone away; it felt pointless trying to capture the beauty of such a town with so many people in your shot.

Taormina was made even more famous recently by the Netflix series “The White Lotus” (Season 2), which was filmed almost entirely right here.

We soldiered on through the humidity, with Leanne window-shopping while I hunted for every possible patch of shade to escape the mobs of sheep coming at me from all angles. As it started to get even hotter, we finally abandoned the shopping experience—yay!—and headed back down the hill, doing our best not to get hit by a car, motorcycle, bike, or bus.

Safe in our room, we cranked up the air conditioning and chilled out until it was time for dinner. We decided to eat at the hotel restaurant, as both the atmosphere and the menu looked pretty good. This resort is excellent; it has everything you need, great staff, and spectacular views overlooking the ocean and the towns below.

We both enjoyed our meal, and after a few drinks, we decided to call it a night. Tomorrow, however, we’ll fight the crowds a little differently