Baden-Baden: A Touch of Class in the Black Forest

The weather looked like it was going to be crap, but looking towards the heavens, there were breaks in the clouds, so it didn't look too bad after all. We drove Hoppy down near the train station and parked him there for the day. One thing you have to watch around here is what's free parking and what's not.

The train ride to Baden-Baden took about 30 minutes. Luckily, as a guest in the Black Forest, you get a "KONUS Card" that gives you free public transport and discounts; otherwise, the return train trip would have cost us $160.00 AUD. Once we arrived at the Baden-Baden station, we hadn't realized that it's situated out of town. We asked a local how to get into town, and they pointed out that a bus leaves every 15 minutes, so this was a good option. The bus wasn't an express by any means, stopping and picking up at every stop along the way.

Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa in Baden Baden

We hadn’t done any research on Baden-Baden and weren't too sure what to expect. All we knew was that it was a spa town people spoke highly of.
Once the bus dropped us off we got our first real glimpse of the place. First of all, it wasn’t just a town, but a city of around 50,000 people—and what a city it was!

Strolling the Oos River and Elegant Gardens

Baden-Baden is an elegant city where nature is perfectly matched with a mix of Neoclassical buildings and a touch of Vienna-style Art Nouveau thrown in. (I had to look that up, as I couldn’t describe it myself!) The Oos River winds its way through the heart of the city, with green corridors of gardens that meander alongside it—perfect for a leisurely walk. I think this meticulous city is about to impress me.

The weather was still kind to us and the rain had held off. Still with a bit of cloud cover, it was perfect for a stroll along the Oos River to take a few photos. On the other side of the river stood grand hotels with gardens and outdoor marquees that flowed down the lawns, becoming part of the riverbank itself. If you drove an Aston Martin and your wife was twenty years younger and wearing Versace, you might get a look in; we had no chance.

View from the church

For lunch, we walked past a bakery where these massive slabs of meat caught my eye. People were lined up to get a slice, which they'd cut as thick as your thumb, throw inside a bun, and devour. They call it "Backschinken." (A baked ham with a German twist to it) I had to give it a go, and with a bit of tomato sauce on top, it was so delicious I could have easily eaten another one. Leanne chose a freshly made ham and salad roll. And the cost? Mine was only $6.25 AUD, with Leanne's about the same. It really makes you wonder why we're being ripped off in Australia!

We soon started noticing horse statues everywhere around Baden-Baden—lining street corners, perched on windowsills, and even sitting on balconies. We had no idea why, but after Googling it, Leanne finally found the answer: they’re getting ready for the “Baden-Baden Gallop,” seven days of full-on horse racing. It’s a bit like our Melbourne Cup Spring Carnival but on steroids, with the best horses from across Germany competing. Marquees, bars, bands, and food stalls are being set up everywhere for the after-race parties.

This is going to be one hell of an event, and it runs straight into the Baden Baden Oktoberfest starting this year on September 5th.

One of the lovely streets in Baden Baden

The Ancient Roman Baths and Trinkhalle

Back in 1802, a "Trinkhalle" (Drinking Hall) was built to celebrate events, and its walls are decorated with scenes from local myths and legends. Baden-Baden also features original Roman baths dating back to the 1st century AD. For 38 Euros a person, you can enjoy these warm spa waters just as they did in ancient times. We didn’t go in, as two days a week swimwear is mandatory, but on the other days, you must go nude. It’s a mixed-gender environment designed for everyone to swim freely and enjoy the company. We saw an older couple in their late 70s heading in, and I couldn't help but think there was no way I needed to see her "saddling up" to us naked—plus, I didn't have my pineapple swimmers!

We also took a walk through the "Stiftskirche" (the Collegiate Church of Our Lady). This Catholic parish church was founded in 1453 but built upon a former church from 1245. It was partially destroyed by fire in 1689 but still stands beautifully today. They still use a tabernacle from 1490 and a larger-than-life crucifix, featuring "old mate" himself, dating back to 1467. It’s just amazing to see how well-kept these items are, and that people are actually allowed to walk right up and touch them.

The old Roman walls behind the ancient spa baths still stand, too. During excavation work back in 1975, they found marble decorations and slabs suggesting that a richly furnished Roman building once occupied the site.

A Taste of Local History: Backschinken and Bakeries

Baden-Baden is just full of history and amazing sights. Standing at the top where the church sits and looking out reminds you of ancient Rome, Barcelona, and Vienna all strewn together, resulting in this marvelous city. We are yet to go to Salzburg or Vienna, but so far, Baden-Baden would have to be my favorite in Europe for sheer grandeur.

Even though there was cloud cover, the day was warm and my face ended up looking like a lobster—Larry the Lobster! Lesson learned: always wear sunscreen.

We ended the day back in Gengenbach with dinner at an Italian restaurant, followed by some Black Forest cake for dessert at a restaurant down the road called "Vino Michelangelo". 

You could easily base yourself here for seven days to explore the Northern Black Forest, all the way up to Heidelberg.