Day 5. Mont Blanc & Chamonix: Aiguille du Midi & Mer de Glace Guide

This morning we're going to catch the gondola to Mont Blanc and the cog train to the Mer de Glace Glacier from Chamonix. Leanne had jumped on the website last night to grab tickets, but they were sold out. They did, however, advise trying your luck at the ticket office, which opens at 7:30 a.m.

Beating the Odds: Tickets and Parking in Chamonix

You're probably thinking, why didn't we book in advance? Well, the weather can be unpredictable, and booking that far ahead can be risky. If it turns nasty, it could be a whiteout on the mountain—a waste of a few hundred dollars with no refunds.

I considered taking the train in, but how hard could it be to find parking? After a quick breakfast, we loaded up our winter jackets (which we probably wouldn't need) and drove into Chamonix. Parking was easier than I expected, with the first carpark on the right under the cable car offering plenty of paid spaces.

Our first stop was the "Cable car ticket office" to see if we were lucky enough to grab any spare tickets—highly unlikely, as it was just past 9:00 a.m. But the girl behind the counter said, "Yes, there are tickets available!" So we scored, and the next thing we knew, we were standing in line for the gondola ride to the top.

The day was absolutely perfect—no clouds in the sky and the bluest of blue, not a breath of wind, and the temperature was just right. It was also going to be hot in Chamonix, around the low to mid-thirties like most days, so bringing our winter jackets wasn’t really necessary, which meant we had to carry them.

Mont Blanc, just over 4,800 meters high, looked strikingly impressive from the car park, its snow-capped peaks standing out against the brightest blue sky I’ve seen in a very long time.

As the cable car climbs to its first stop, you can see across the tops of the French Alps as far as the eye can reach. You can hop off here for photos or a bite to eat in the café, or continue on for the steeper leg of the journey. We decided to press on, swapping cable cars and heading higher. Along the way, we passed small glaciers and ragged peaks that seemed within arm’s reach, while looking down at Chamonix, where the cars on the roads were barely visible

Climbing Aiguille du Midi: The Highest Point in France

The journey to the Aiguille du Midi summit terrace at 3,842 meters takes around 25 minutes, and the views from here are breathtaking—something photos just can’t capture.

There are several viewing platforms at different levels too, each offering different perspectives in all directions. The top viewing area provides a full 360-degree view, stretching as far as the Alps of Italy and Switzerland, and even giving a glimpse of the Matterhorn if you know where to look.

We spent around an hour up here and then caught the gondola back down to the “Plan de l’Aiguille,” the halfway point we had passed earlier. We hopped off, walked down to the café, grabbed a drink, and just watched the mountain, with gondolas whisking people up and bringing them back down again. It was the perfect day, and words really can’t capture the incredible day we had both experienced.

The Montenvers Cogwheel Train to Mer de Glace Glacier

Once back down, we headed into the village and had a good walk around. Chamonix is a ski village, yet also a small town thriving with both locals and tourists. We grabbed a quick bite to eat before finding the cog train that would take us to the “Mer de Glace Glacier,” one of the largest in France at 1,900 meters high, along with its famous Ice Caves.

The walk from the village to the train station can be a little confusing, so allow yourself a good 20 minutes and don’t hesitate to ask for directions after you get your tickets.

The Montenvers cogwheel train ride itself is very scenic. This little monster of a machine pulls itself up and around the mountain via a rack and pinion system, giving it the ability to climb steeply. Along the way, you pass through lovely fir forests with stunning views of the valley below, where paragliders catch thermals and circle above like eagles. We kept climbing, passing hikers tackling the trails the hard way, before finally arriving at the top. The views of the glacier were breathtaking, and being so close to these mountains makes you feel like you could just reach out and touch them.

looking back down at Chamonix from the top of Mont Blanc

The Montenvers cogwheel train that takes you to the ice caves

Ice Caves and 600 Steps: A Bridge Too Far?

We didn’t do the ice caves, as the walk down is around 600 steps—and we get enough exercise with the apartments Leanne picks. (Oh, and our apartment has 46 steps this time around!) We grabbed some ice cream while up there and, once again, took in the views. Unless you’re planning to do the caves, around 30–40 minutes is plenty of time.

Back in Chamonix, we headed to a supermarket and picked up some goodies to make ourselves a platter for tonight, where we’ll sit on the balcony, enjoy the view, and open a bottle of wine. There are deep rumblings in the valley again, but I doubt it will turn into anything.

Tomorrow, we head into Switzerland—land of fondue!