Salzburg in the Rain: Tiny Umbrellas, Mozart’s Secrets, and Monastery Beer

The rain has arrived and looks as though it’s going to settle in for the day. We have a free walking tour booked for this morning with "Guruwalk", so it’s definitely going to be a wet one!

A Salzburg Breakfast: Austrian Mattress Review and Not a Toaster in Sight

My God, Austrian beds haven't evolved much since Fred Flintstone I'm afraid to say. I'm hoping sleeping like a caveman might be a one‑off but the mattresses are that hard there is no bounce, and the pillows—despite looking fluffy and soft—go wafer‑thin the moment your head touches them. Even two pillows don’t help, I just hope they improve. Tonight I'll have to roll up a towel as a third pillow just to get height.

We headed downstairs to grab breakfast, and it's funny how every country is just a little bit different from the last. Australian buffet-style breakfasts usually feature lashings of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, and baked beans—everything a classic Aussie or American tourist could want. Not here, though.

Selfie on the bridge over the Salzach River

A walk around this buffet showed a massive selection of bakery items: fresh loaves of bread, croissants, bagels, pretzels, and bread rolls. On one side, there was fresh fruit and cereal; on another, a spread of cured meats, hams, and various pressed meats, alongside a variety of four different cheeses and a rack of hard-boiled eggs. They even had plates of red, green, and yellow capsicums cut into small slices. It seemed a bit odd to see peppers for breakfast, but clearly not to the locals!

There were no "big fat Aussie meals" to be had here—and not a toaster to be seen.

The Tiny Umbrella: Navigating Salzburg in the Rain

We caught the number three bus into the city, which took only a few minutes, dropping us off near the Salzach—the main river that runs through Salzburg. Since we had some time to kill before the tour, we went on a hunt for umbrellas and eventually found them at H&M.

Leanne selected a nice, light, "skin-coloured" one for me, apparently because it matched my pants. (Does she think every time it rains I’m going to slip on my brown chinos?) Once we stepped out of the store, we both popped them open. I took one look at mine and realized something was definitely wrong. After comparing it to Leanne’s, I’m convinced mine is for a child; the handle is so short that I have to permanently hold my arm up, and the canopy barely covers my head.

It was too late to take it back, so on we trudged through the rain—me struggling with a miniature umbrella and Leanne in fits of giggles.

I can usually navigate my way around cities pretty well, but Salzburg is a little different. It’s full of narrow streets and little shortcuts between buildings—like arcades that house hidden shops and winding walkways that lead to the next street over.

The streets and shops are incredibly elegant, with people hurrying to work and getting ready for another day’s trade. The narrow Gothic and Baroque-style buildings offer a real glimpse into what life must have been like back then. We explored for a bit, trying our best to stay dry before the tour began. The rain was really starting to get heavy as we made our way to "Mozart’s Statue," with me and a Childs umbrella leading the way to the meeting point.

"Candela a magical shop" full of Christmas decorations, be prepared to spend money

Once at the Spirit of Mozart, we caught up with Johannes (John), a guide of mixed German and American descent. He was our leader for the next few hours and was very easy to understand. Once the group was all together, we looked like a small sea of umbrellas as the rain continued to pour down.

He had planned numerous stops around Salzburg, with the first being the Mirabell Gardens, famous for The Sound of Music. He shared the history behind it, which was fascinating—especially the story of the "little archbishop" who fathered fifteen children with his mistress and built these grand gardens as a gift for her.

Other stops included various churches and the fascinating history behind the statues that populate not only this city but much of Europe. He delved into the deep history of Salzburg, covering everything from the life of Mozart to the darker days of Nazi Germany and the broader story of Austria. He explained Austria's relationship with Hitler which was complex but very interesting.

He also gave us a hot tip: we have to visit the Augustiner Bräu (the brewery at the St. Augustine monastery) on the hill. According to Johannes, it’s the only place that serves the best beer in all of Austria, and at a reduced price to boot. Apparently, this specific beer can’t be bought anywhere else in the world. It opens from around 2:30pm and best you get there early

Mirabell Gardens Salzburg

A little bit About the Short "Salzburg Nose" Mozart

Poor old Mozart. All the pictures you see of him today are nothing like the man he actually was. He spent most of his upbringing traveling in the back of a horse and cart with his father, trekking between cities for years. In reality, he was very short, pale looking, hunched over, and the left side of his face was badly scarred from smallpox; his right side was always used for sketches because it was his only "good" side. Back then, there were many diseases with no cure, and since Mozart considered himself a bit of a ladies’ man, these ailments and others likely explained his early death.

Despite his physical struggles, he was a musical genius. Interestingly, his sister, Nannerl, was just as talented and some say could have been even better. But in those days, once a woman reached the "ripe old age" of eighteen, it was no longer considered proper for her to practice music. Women were expected to marry and bear children, and sadly, that became Nannerl’s fate.

Most musicians would sit and play a few notes, write them down, play a few more, then scribble them out and start again. However, on Mozart’s original manuscripts, there is almost never a note scribbled out. It is as though he composed the entire piece in his head first, played it through, and then simply wrote it down perfectly. Even today, his surviving composition sheets remain remarkably clean, with no mark-outs at all.

The rain was letting up and the sun was starting to break through the clouds and our tour was coming to an end, however there was a little more to explore before making our way to St. Augustine’s (the monastery on the hill) about a kilometer away, such as St. Sebastian's Cemetery . If you ever have to visit a cemetery, there this is the one and St. Peter's

The images above show the Residenzbrunnen (Residence Fountain), the largest Baroque fountain built outside of Italy. Completed in 1661, it features four snorting sea horses at its base.

The middle photo captures the Salzburg Residenz Palace, located in the same square as the fountain. The window on the left, just above the entrance, is the historic spot where Hitler waved to the crowds upon his arrival in Salzburg. Finally, there is the Mozart Monument dedicated to the influential composer standing proud in Mozart Square. All in very close proximity to each other.

Augustiner Bräu: A 'Fat Man's Paradise' and the Best Beer in Austria

The beer hall full of food fit for a king along with plenty of Ale to wash it down - St. Augustine’s Salzburg

We arrived right at opening time—2:30 PM sharp—just as the massive timber doors were being unlocked, then you walk down these old marble steps into what may have once led to a cellar, but is now a bustling hall full of incredible food stalls. There was roast pork with crackling, pigs’ knuckles, roast beef, and lamb, alongside freshly made baguettes loaded with various meats and salads. There were rotisseries spinning with chickens, fresh eel, and fish, along with deli cases filled with all sorts of other local delicacies—most of which I had absolutely no idea what they were!

You head over to where the rows of half and full-pint steins are. You pick one up and wash it under a running fountain, then take it over to the fellows at the tables where they have just tapped the old wooden kegs. They grab your stein and fill it to the top until it's overflowing, then slide it back to you.

I grabbed two and took them back to a table which we scored, and there I had my first taste. It was amazing—I must admit, it was the best beer I have ever tasted. I was in heaven; a fat man’s paradise with all this meat as well. It would be very easy to settle in for a day session here. The beer garden out the back could have easily catered for a thousand people.

No Strudel tonight so we shared a Banana Split

After the feeding frenzy at the brewery, we headed back to the town square as the rain had subsided and the clouds were starting to clear. We tried for a few more photo opportunities, but decided it might be best to leave them for tomorrow when the weather is supposed to be finer.

We had grabbed a few baguettes and planned to eat them in the beer garden when we got back, but after finding a few leftover ciders in my suitcase, it was easier to just grab some ice and sit out on the balcony. However, we did like that apple strudel from last night, and we figured another one tonight wouldn’t hurt! Heading downstairs, we again got lucky for a table as there were quite a few people here tonight, inside and out. I translated the dessert menu and spotted a banana split with scoops of ice cream, chocolate topping, and whipped cream. How could you pass that up?

Tomorrow, we’re heading to the castle and a palace not far from our accommodation.