Annecy - Southeastern France

On dusk walking the canals in Annecy

We landed at Geneva Airport after a pleasantly uneventful flight and stepped out into the mid-thirties heat while waiting for our BlaBlaBus to Annecy. We had considered the train, but with multiple transfers and a three-hour journey, it wasn’t worth the hassle. The bus, by contrast, took just forty-five minutes and dropped us at Annecy station—only a ten-minute walk from our accommodation in the old town.

What I hadn’t remembered was that the apartment sat on the third floor of a six-hundred-year-old building with no lift. Sixty-six creaking timber steps spiraled upward, and by the time we reached the door with our bags, our legs were aching, but there was still another trip to be done.

Flowers adorning the windows in old Annecy

Inside, however, it opened into a spacious, beautifully decorated apartment—full of character yet comfortable. A full kitchen, dining area, and washing machine made it practical, while its location in the old town meant everything was at our doorstep, with the lake just a short stroll away.

After unpacking, we set off to explore. We wandered through narrow cobblestoned streets, eventually making our way down to the lake. The day was hot, tourists crowded the cafés, and verandahs offered just enough shade to escape the sun.

One of the many bridges in Annecy

Annecy itself is breathtaking—a village perched on Lac d’Annecy (Lake Annecy), framed by the Alps, which must look magical under winter snow. Cobblestone lanes and 13th-century buildings line every street, while arched bridges draped with flower baskets create a picture-perfect setting. Settled around 3400 BC and later part of the Roman Empire by 1 BC, its history is easy to imagine as you stroll along the canals.

Though busier than I expected, the crowds were manageable. At the lake, large trees provided generous shade, and families relaxed on the well-kept grass, admiring the Alps across the water

Lake Annecy

The heat eventually drove me in for a swim. We found a quiet spot away from paddle boats and families, and the water was perfect—crystal clear, surprisingly warm for an Alpine lake, and set against a dramatic mountain backdrop. Afterward, we simply sat and people-watched, soaking up the atmosphere of the day.

On the way back, still warm, we ducked into the first bar we saw for sangrias—five euros each at happy hour, a bargain—and passed tempting boulangeries we promised ourselves for tomorrow.

By evening, strolling back to the apartment, we passed several inviting restaurants that looked ideal for dinner, but exhaustion won out. Instead, we settled for crepes from a charming little shop directly below our apartment.

Busker on the Pont des Amours bridge

We wanted an early start to capture some photos before the tourists arrived, so by 7:30 we were out of bed and strolling the cobblestones, beating both the crowds and the morning heat. The canals and streets looked their best in the morning light, and after a few shots we wandered into a newer part of Annecy. There, we found a café just opening its doors and claimed a couple of chairs out front. Breakfast was simple—pastries and coffee—and I have to admit, the coffee was slightly better than what I’d had in Dubai.

Palais de I'Île

Leanne had downloaded an audio tour of Annecy, which promised detailed descriptions of the sights. It didn’t last long, though; we’d already explored most of the town, and at eight euros it wasn’t really worth it. We had tried to book a free city tour, but unfortunately the only available day wasn’t in English.

By mid-morning we’d seen everything we wanted, and the crowds were beginning to gather. Restaurants and little cafés were filling up, so we headed to the famous Annecy boulangerie, La Fermette. I’d been looking forward to a proper French baguette—a crusty foot-long roll, soft inside, filled with Jamón , creamy French cheese, lettuce, tomato, and olive oil infused with herbs. At just six euros (about AU$10.50), it was delicious and absolutely worth the wait.

Young locals artist and their view

Later in the day we stopped at a local bar under massive oak trees along the canal, resting our legs while people and their dogs cooled off in the crystal-clear water.

That evening we dined at a nice French restaurant nearby, Brasserie l’Abbaye. I still can’t get used to Europeans smoking at their tables while others eat, but apparently it’s perfectly normal. I ordered a pork cutlet with mushrooms, salad, and chips, while Leanne enjoyed grilled bream with vegetables. Both meals were very nice. One thing I’ve noticed: European meals don’t go overboard with sides. In Australia we tend to pile on as much as possible, whereas here the plates feel more restrained, you might call—simplistic.

It was time for a drink, it was 12 O'clock somewhere

Annecy truly shines at night. Walking to “Little Venice” along dimly lit paths that crisscross the canals was a highlight. The reflections of the lights on the water, people chatting, children playing, and crepe shops opening for the evening—it all brought this storybook village to life.

Annecy was the perfect place to spend a few days unwinding before continuing our trip toward the Alps. We highly recommend it and August is the ideal month, though this summer was unusually warm, keeping the temperatures a little higher than expected.

Next Up:   Saint Gervais-le-Bain